While it may seem like a no-brainer, double-check that the washer is plugged in. A mid-cycle bump or jiggle could have caused the plug to work its way out of the outlet, and a re-plug might put you back in business. The heavy-duty power cord to your washer should be plugged directly into an outlet—not into an extension cord. The washer will probably function again after the motor cools, but the problem will likely occur again.
Plus, relying on an extension cord will shorten the useful life of the washer. In a top-loading washer, a small protrusion on the underside of the lid depresses a switch when you close the lid, serving as a safety precaution to detect when the lid is closed. If the protrusion has bent out of shape, it may not trigger the switch as intended.
Test the theory by opening the lid, selecting the spin cycle on your washer, and then manually depressing the switch with a finger. If the machine starts spinning normally, simply re-bend the protrusion so it triggers the spin switch properly. Did your washer not spin when you pressed the switch manually? The problem could stem from a defect in the switch itself.
Fortunately, replacing a broken spin switch can be a DIY-friendly project, depending on the washing machine brand and model.
You may not realize it, but most front-loading washers require high efficiency HE detergents with low foaming action. Pull out the washer to look behind it and check that the hose is kink-free, then carefully push the machine back into place so that you do not inadvertently crimps the hose again. Then run the wet stuff you set aside through the washer.
Usually this issue is impossible to ignore, because your washing machine will make it loud and clear — with noise and vibrations aplenty. Problem: This applies to top loading machines only. Top loaders have a device called a lid switch that signals to the washer when the lid is not properly closed. Problem: As a general rule, a washing machine doesn't spin normally unless the laundry load has been drained of water.
Fix: For the first issue, unkink the hose. To solve the second problem, detach and unclog the hoses leading from the appliance to its drain pump. Problem: Even when your washing machine agitates just fine, trouble with the spin cycle might be caused by your drive motor.
On some top-load washer models, the motor will drive the pump by spinning in the opposite direction than it did during the agitation cycle. Drive systems that assist in draining and spinning the tub can vary, even within top-load washer models. A variable speed control board will signal the motor to gradually increase the spinning speed.
The faster the tub spins, the more effectively the water is removed from the clothing or linens. Front-load washing machines will also send voltage to a drain pump that drains the water from the tub and forces it through the drain hose to a laundry tub or standpipe.
A trap with too much debris can prevent the drain pump from successfully draining the water from the tub, so you should clean out the trap periodically.
Many front-load washer models use a direct drive system, with a stator located on the rear of the appliance, to spin the tub. The stator, energized by the voltage sent by the control, becomes an electromagnet which interacts with a rotor on the tub. The rotor has permanent magnets built into it, so the two components create a magnetic field which rotates the tub in each direction.
Other front-load models use a motor , belt, and pulley to rotate the tub. A motor control board will regulate the amount and polarity of the voltage sent to the motor in order to affect speed and direction.
During the spin cycle, the speed of the rotation is increased dramatically. At the beginning of the spin cycle, the tub is rotated more slowly to allow the laundry to be evenly distributed, but as the cycle advances, the voltage is increased which results in a high-speed spin. Generally, front-load washers will spin faster than top-load models, a key factor in reducing drying time.
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